Behind the somewhat eccentric multilingual name and a paterfamilias (Eric) who always wears the most eccentric glasses, we have one of the great multi-vintage cuvées, with all but 25% of the blend coming from reserve wine. Dosed low at 2.5g/L, the wine is unerringly complex, boasting bright red fruit with a savoury undertow, then clear citric acidity adding linearity and a rich biscuity core, courtesy the maturity of the components, all of which are now harmoniously integrated.

Disgorged in April 2020 with three grams per liter dosage, the latest rendition of the NV Brut Cuvée des Grand Vintages wafts from the glass with inviting aromas of pear, toasted almonds, dried white flowers, honeycomb, peach and nougat. Full-bodied, elegantly fleshy and enveloping, with ripe but racy acids, a pillowy mousse and a nicely layered core, it's already quite expressive despite its recent disgorgement, but I suspect it will show even more depth and dimension with another year or two on cork.