The base 2019 Saint Joseph is terrific stuff, and I’d love to have case in the cellar. Medium to full-bodied, pure, and elegant, it’s not a blockbuster and leans on its purity, perfect balance, and silky tannins. All Syrah from steep, granite slopes around Mauves and Tournon that was partially destemmed and aged in a mix of barrels, it makes the most of this great vintage and can be enjoyed any time over the coming 10-15 years.

Reductive and closed aromatically, the 2017 Gigondas nevertheless has beautiful depth of fruit and richness on the palate, with medium to full body, ripe, polished tannins, and a great finish. A blend of 75% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre, and 20% Syrah, brought up in equal parts concrete tanks and demi-muids, my money is on it being an outstanding wine.